Science: Laboratory Cheese

One day when his flock became restive, a shepherd boy in 10th century France left his bread and goat's-milk cheese behind him in a cave near the village of Roquefort. Weeks later the boy came back to see what had become of his lunch. The bread was a lost cause, but the cheese was covered with green mold that proved highly edible. The result: mankind began eating Roquefort cheese.

Such happenstance methods of food manufacture, paralleled in the discoveries of other famous cheeses, have long been a challenge to modern scientific planners. At a meeting of the Illinois Dairy Products Association in...

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