GERMANY: Hope on the Elbe

Boasts a 1950 German travel folder: "Hamburg has everything." To Germans from the shabby towns and the bombed-out cities, the statement seems true.

Stork Club on the Elbe. The shops that line the Binnen-Alster Lake, in the heart of the city, look like those of Fifth Avenue; their windows are filled with French perfumes, Danish silver and Paris gowns, minks and foxes. Splendid restaurants (including the Seute Deern, a three-masted schooner tied up at the waterfront) serve fresh caviar and Prague ham; a meal costs $6 to $8.

Hamburg's opera is superb; its concert stage draws top musicians from all Europe. Night...

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