THE HOLY LAND: 52 Hours of Peace

All year long, peace is mocked in the Holy Land. Across the barbed-wire frontier that divides Palestine with a crown of thorns, Arab legionnaires in red-and-white-checked kefiyas and Jewish soldiers in British-style khaki eye each other warily, fingers on triggers. By night in Arab border hamlets, villagers playing backgammon in the coffee houses hush their voices the better to hear the stealthy pad of an approaching "reprisal" patrol. In the white Israeli houses shaped like sugar cubes, newcomers to Israel anxiously tack grenade-proof netting across the window frames for protection against Arab-hurled "mosquitoes."

This week in Jerusalem, spiritual capital of...

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