In a Madrid bull ring one afternoon last week, the torero was as clumsy as Sancho Panza, and the bull as listless as Rosinante. The aficionados booed, hissed, threw programs and cushions into the ring. Police tried in vain to quell the uproar. No one had seen anything like it in Spain for twelve yearssince Franco came to power and banned bullring demonstrations, a beloved Spanish custom. Howled one spectator: "We want bulls for our money."
What Madrileños really wanted for their money was not bulls, but beef. The ruckus at the ring,...
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