Once long ago, Pablo Picasso warned an inquisitive American lady not to "ask questions of the man at the wheel." At midcentury, Protean Pablo is still grasping the wheel of modern art, and most people are still wondering whether the boat is hopelessly lost or merely off on an extended voyage of exploration. This week in Europe, hundreds of dauntless American ladies and their husbands were once again doggedly searching for a first-hand answer.
In a cluster of pavilions beside a Venetian lagoon, they had their best chance of finding it. There the Venice...
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