Candy Is Dandy

With its soda-pop and jellybean atmosphere, San Francisco's Blum's (rhymes with Tums) looks like any old-fashioned corner candy store. Blum's hustling, bustling proprietor, Fred Levy, 37, wants his customers to think that's just what it is. But the atmosphere is deceiving. Blum's sells more candy (780,000 lbs. last year in its San Francisco store alone) than any other retail store in the world, and has a list of mail-order customers that reads like Who's Who (among them: Eisenhower, Noel Coward, Jim Farley, Lauren Bacall).

Blum's candy had been always handmade. As a...

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