In the sunny public square of Marino, a medieval town high in the Roman Hills, good-natured carabinieri in soaking wet uniforms last week kept a riotous crowd back from the public fountain. One by one they let villagers and visitors approach. One spout flowed rich red wine, the other white, and it was free for all but those hoggish enough to try to use buckets. It was the annual vintage festival, celebrated in Marino for over a thousand years.

On the dusty plains of Hungary white ox teams came in from the vineyards...

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