Museums: Filigrees & Forgings

The summer's rush of tourists began to flood into Paris last week, attracted always by its reputation for high style, fine restaurants and magnificent art collections. But as any seasoned traveler knows, there is more to France than just Paris. And already Francophiles were circling on their maps those little-known, remote museums that, as the Guide Michelin says of its top restaurants, are "well worth the trip."

Traditionalists were planning stopovers at the Musée Ingres in the Gascon town of Montauban, or the Musée Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi.

Modernists will make a beeline for the Maeght Foundation in sunny St.-Paul-de-Vence,...

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