Nicosia looked as tranquil as the Mediterranean that laps the island's shores. In one suburb, children skipped rope while their elders played tennis near by. It took a sharp eye to spot the sandbags piled in upper-story windows. Behind some sat flinty-eyed Greek Cypriots with automatic weapons. Behind others were grim-faced Turkish Cypriots with bolt-action rifles. On a roof behind still another row of sandbags stood a Danish noncom attached to the United Nations peacekeeping force, stationed in Cyprus for the past two years. "Sure, it's dull today," he said. "It's dull...
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