Food: Vanishing Taste

What — no caviar? Gourmets, restaurateurs and conspicuous consumers may quail at the thought, but the possibility is a real one.

The astounding fact is that 85% of the world's supply of this capitalist treat comes from the Caspian Sea, and all Caspian sturgeon breed in a single 1,000-acre sand-and-gravel spawning ground near the mouth of Russia's Volga River—even those caught in Iranian waters. An article in Russia's highbrow literary newspaper Literaturnaya Gazeta, signed by a group of intellectuals that included eight biologists, contained a dire warning that the completion of a...

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