France: Les Am

The craggy coast of Brittany juts into the Atlantic like the head of a hungry snapping turtle. Ragged with reefs and studded with wind-worn, prehistoric monuments, it is one of France's poorest but most picturesque regions. Even the names are striking: Brest and Quimper, Kernascléden and Morbihan—echoes of the Celtic invasion from Wales that settled the giant peninsula about 500 A.D. Life is hard and poor, and even the tourist trade is seasonal at best, for tourists come only when the wet, ragged winds from the Channel let up in the summer,...

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