Cuba: Split-Level Subversion

Red and black flags flapped from every lamppost, and gigantic portraits of Fidel Castro, Guerrilla Expert Che Guevara and "Carlos" Marx glowered from windows and walls of office buildings. Banners were strung here and there with the slogan: IF YOU WANT TO BE A REVOLUTIONARY, START A REVOLUTION. One of the proudest achievements of Castro's revolution—Havana's Coppelia Tee Cream Parlor—was dishing out more flavors (54), as it likes to boast, than even Howard Johnson does. In the crowded dining rooms of Havana's five "luxury" hotels, three waiters orbited eagerly around each table,...

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