Kampala, like Rome, is built on seven hills, and to Ugandans each has its special significance. But none is so important as Mengo Hill, where a rambling brick palace on the peak is an object of universal awe. Not even the British dared violate its sanctity, for beneath its silver dome lived the Kabaka (ruler) of Buganda, largest and richest of Uganda's five ancient kingdoms. Buganda's rulers were so powerful in colonial days that they were always granted considerable autonomy by the British. Cambridge-educated Sir Edward F. W. Walugembe Mutebi Luwangula ("Freddy")...
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