Travel: By Boat to Alaska

A mother bear and her cubs cup the air in their paws, warily sniffing the scent of a passing boat. Schools of porpoises and killer whales gambol in the offshore depths. From dense, wet cedar trees comes the heavy smell of primeval forest as the boat moves past the maze of islands, deep-cut fjords and ice-hung mountains that make up British Columbia's spectacular coastline. Last week, with the inauguration of the new $7,000,000 Queen of Prince Rupert car ferry, the whole coastline became readily accessible for the first time to U.S. tourists bound for Alaska.

There was no question but what...

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