Food & Drink: Sticky Business


Ever since the 1910s, when peddlers on horse-drawn carts began to ladle out vanilla at 15¢ a pailful, the traveling ice cream man has been an American folk hero. To the young, he has become better known than the fire chief, more welcome than the mailman, more respected than the corner cop. Once, when a Larchmont, N.Y., Good Humor man switched routes, 500 neighborhood tots signed a petition for his return.

But no matter how lovable he is, not everyone loves him. In recent years many a mother has tried to freeze the popsicle peddler off the streets. Dozens...

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