Luxembourg: The Grandest Duchy

The smallest member of NATO was the one least troubled by the alarms and arguments over European defense. Although Luxembourg was for centuries fought over by France and Germany, its 153 turreted castles now serve as tourist attractions, and last week its 327,000 subjects were concerned with a purely sentimental occasion. It was one of those episodes suggesting that, despite the new Europe's growing pains, the old Europe somehow goes on.

"Charlotte, mir him ek guer! [Charlotte, we love you]," cried thousands of weeping, waving burghers, crowding around the palace, right across the street from the showrooms of...