The New York Fair: RESTAURANTS

The fair does handsomely by those with fat pocketbooks and fickle palates. Herring lovers will drool at the wide selection offered on Denmark's $6.50 cold board. The Spanish pavilion's Toledo and Granada restaurants dish up a numbing array of French and regional dishes por mucho dinero. Africans in native robes serve groundnut soup and couscous ($4.50) in Africa's Tree House, while the diner finds himself eyeball-to-eyeball with an inquisitive giraffe. Indonesia's seven-course, $7.75 dinner is spiced by whirling Balinese dancers. There are also many good, inexpensive restaurants. Cafe Hilton atop the Better Living Center offers cafeteria-styled choices of regional dishes from...

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