The unrushed ways and the tweedy elegance of Virginia's Hunt Country have hardly changed in a century or more. The First Families of Virginia have gradually given ground to wealthier Yankees, to be sure, but the invaders have been eager to preserve the pastoral traditions and manored customs of another era. The stately homes are well kept, and some of the nation's finest horses are pastured behind dazzling whitewashed fences. Except for its new French chef, the Red Fox Tavern in the hamlet of Middleburg (pop. 663) is much as it was...
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