NEW YORK: The Rocky Roll

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For Victor's Open Kitchen on the western edge of Batavia, N.Y., the breakfast order of poached eggs, toast and coffee was routine. But the customer obviously was not. While his eggs poached, he table-hopped to shake hands. He ducked behind the counter to greet the cook, the counterman, the waitresses and the busboy. For each, he flashed a broad smile, his forehead crinkled into wrinkles. "Hello, I'm Nelson Rockefeller," he said. "I'm running for Governor. It's a real pleasure to say hello to you." When the eggs were served, the candidate...

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