ARGENTINA: The Rocky Road Back

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Cool autumn winds off the River Plate stirred fitfully through Buenos Aires this week, fluttering bright political posters on the walls, wafting a rich aroma from the stand-up coffee bars, riffling the leaves of the acacia trees. Steamers hooted in the harbor, cattle bawled in the stockyards, streetcars clanged and creaked. In the restaurants, solid citizens, their appetites renewed by the crisp air, tucked napkins into collars and turned with sober and fastidious attention to platter-size steaks and tall bottles of red wine. At night, in the tango palaces, unsmiling...

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