Only a short stroll from the smart shops of famed Piazza di Spagna begins Via Margutta, one of Rome's most remarkable streets. It is shabby, narrow, and lined by drab, ocher-colored buildings. Not until a visitor pushes through any of a dozen open archways into a maze of courtyards, stone stairs and quiet, hidden gardens, is the secret of the street revealed. For here live some of Italy's most colorful artists, their names often scrawled on rickety doors. Via Margutta has been the Roman artists' quarter since the 16th century Today, in the center of a city of 1,700,000 it seems...
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