Perched atop a hill 500 feet above the Austrian city of Salzburg (pop. 100,096), the Hohensalzburg Fortress looks for all the world like a candy castle in some fairy tale. A tiny railway scrambles to the top, and tourists flock to the terrace for a breath of mountain air and a view of the Salzburg valley below. Last week the tourists had an extra surprise in store for them. Oskar Kokoschka, one of the most furious individualists in modern art (TIME, July 12, 1948), had taken over the barracks of the old fortress for a summer art school, and was making...
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