PERU: Legendary Innkeeper

Her name is plainly Mrs. Bates, A strange capricious whim of fate's To crown with such banality So strong a personality.

—Noel Coward

Arequipa, Peru's second city, is dominated by El Misti, a 19,100-ft., snowcapped volcano, but for almost 50 years its principal attraction was "Tia" Bates.

Mrs. Ana Bates was an old South America hand. A U.S. citizen by birth, she went to Chile and Bolivia as the bride of a British mining engineer. After he drifted out of the picture, she moved to Arequipa and started a guesthouse with a small garden. In time it grew into a long, rambling...

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