FOOD: Operation Oleo

Like an army awaiting H-hour, 150 huge trailer trucks lined up on the New Jersey side of the Hudson River one night last week. At midnight the trucks thundered into Manhattan by bridge and tunnel, fanned out over Long Island and northern suburbs. It was the first time in 70 years that yellow margarine could be legally sold in New York State, the nation's biggest market. By noon, a total of 400 trucks, some of them blaring banners labeled "Operation Oleo," had stocked almost every food store in the state.

As grocers' margarine sales shot...

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