SPAIN: Buried Sinner

"I sometimes think," sang the Poet Omar, "that never blows so red the rose as where some buried Caesar bled." Few, if any. roses bloomed in the church of Spain's highland town of Viana where lethal and licentious Cesare Borgia was buried in March 1507. But over his remains, bled white by assassins' knives, rose a fine sarcophagus bearing the legend: "Here in little earth lies he who was feared by all, who held peace and war in his hand."

Like Cesare himself, whose violent life came to a violent end at 32, the tomb was not long for this...

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