SPAIN: El Caudillo

More than 100,000 Spaniards dug out faded blue shirts and jaunty red berets last week, and traveled in wheezing trucks, buses and trains into Madrid. They carried food in paper bags, and their fat wineskins gurgled. Along silent streets, devoid of trappings or large 'crowds, thousands of them marched in units to the capital's big soccer stadium. Only there, with fluttering banners, the blare of martial music and the thud of boots, did it seem at all like the old days. Veterans of the Blue Division sported Nazi -Iron Crosses on their...

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