In Brazil, the "land of tomorrow," Sáo Paulo is the city of today. Last week in Sáo Paulo, Brazil's second city, a filling-station attendant watched a convoy of new trucks rolling down the highway to Rio, straight through a blinding tropical storm. Said he, with matter-of-fact pride: "Paulistas don't stop for anything." High in his 27-story skyscraper, a businessman explained judiciously: "We are Brazil. Without us, what would there be?"
Sáo Paulo is the world's fastest-growing major city; since 1890, its population has shot from 65,000 to 2,250,000. Located squarely on the...