Music: Strauss's Last Opera

Salzburg's great music festival is traditionally dedicated to Mozart. For 30 years, thousands of visitors have flocked each summer to the ancient town which sprawls under its towering 11th Century fortress on the Mönchsberg, to file reverently through the house where Mozart was born, tramp across flag-bedecked Mozart bridge, sip wine in the Mozart cafe, take their clothes to the Mozart laundry.

Visitors this summer even smoked Mozart cigarettes, munched Mozart pumpernickel. There were performances in the Festspielhaus and the open-air Rocky Riding School, not quite up to snuff, of Mozart's Don Giovanni...

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