Education: Don Benedetto

In a vast, 16th Century palazzo in the heart of Naples lives a stubby, stooped old man whom Neapolitans call "Don Benedetto." Though he is in his 80s, the old man ordinarily rises at 6, and an hour later trudges into his book-lined study to write at his big desk or to sit in his big armchair, thinking. Occasionally Neapolitans see him out strolling, passing dilapidated palaces and ancient churches, to his favorite bookshop on the Via Foria for a bout of friendly dickering. But last week Neapolitans were troubled: out of the palazzo...

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