FRANCE: The Road to Villa Chagrin

Where the Riviera is loud and brash, its less renowned rival Biarritz is reserved and circumspect. Drowsing in the winter sun, discreet Biarritz has its full share of ménages à trois, lurid and perverted personalities, titled lovers and mistresses of high & low degree. But scandal, however it flourishes behind the hedges that screen the big villas, is never to be flaunted in the swank drinking places. Thus it has been ever since the days of Britain's Edward VII, who set the tone for Biarritz and usually remembered to draw the blinds.

So Luscious. Last week a deep distress pervaded the...

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