RUSSIA: Iowa in the Ukraine

Fords and Chevrolets honk under a movie marquee advertising a western. Blue notes from a cocktail lounge mingle with the blare of bebop from a drugstore jukebox. "A hamburger and a Coke," says the man in a Tennessee drawl, scuttling onto a lunch-counter stool. It might be Tupelo or Tuxedo Junction—but it is actually Vinnitsa in the Ukraine. The existence of a top-secret finishing school for Soviet spies, made in an exact copy of a small American town, has long been a fantasy of fiction writers, but has also been taken quite...

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