Sport: Grudge Match

In the sleepy corn-and-cotton hamlet of Coyolito, near El Salvador's Pacific coast, last week's big soccer match promised special excitement. Aside from their sporting rivalry, Captain Jesus Rivera of the local sport club and Ricardo Ayala, captain of a team of workmen from the nearby railroad, were mortal enemies in private life. When they trotted onto the field, both were wearing unusual football equipment: long-barreled pistols.

Keyed up by corn liquor, the crowd watched the scoreless game tensely until the referee made a disputed decision: seconds later the pistols were drawn and machete-swinging spectators poured onto the field. In 20 minutes six...

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