HIGH above the sleepy Brazilian town of Congonhas do Campo (pop. 6,000) stands the small, twin-towered, white Church of Senhor Bom Jesus do Matosinhos. Last week the church was the goal of the great annual pilgrimage of Brazilian backlanders, as it has been each September since 1786. The Church of the Good Jesus has all the religious trappings of a shrine: founded by the Portuguese hermit Feliciano Mendes, and today a Redemptorist mission, it boasts the original cross used by the hermit and a wooden effigy of the Good Jesus renowned for winder-working...

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