Books: King of Chefs

GEORGES AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER (138 pp.) —Eugène Herbodeau and Paul Thalamas—Macmillan ($4.50).

One evening at the turn of the century, the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) came to dine at London's Savoy and was startled by an offering near the top of the menu. It read: "Cuisses de Nymphes a VAurore—Nymphs' Thighs alt Dawn." Intrigued, the prince nibbled at them, then called for the chef and demanded to know what he was eating. Frogs' legs, announced the chef. (In this case poached in a white-wine court bouillon, steeped in an aromatic cream sauce, seasoned with paprika, tinted gold, covered by a...

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