ITALY: Ice Cream Every Day

The 2,700 recorded years of Sicily's history read like a roll call of invaders—Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Carthaginians, Byzantines, Vandals, Saracens, Normans, Spaniards, Garibaldi and his red-shirted Thousand, the Allies of World War II. Last week the 4,500,000 inhabitants of the biggest island in the Mediterranean were subjected to a fresh invasion. This one was noisy but peaceable, consisting of a stream of orating visitors from the Italian mainland. The attraction was not Sicily's resources or its harshly lovely geography, but its political loyalties. As a semi-autonomous region of the Italian Republic,...

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