A few miles north of the equator, not far from where the Nile rises, the Mountains of the Moon face east towards a mighty lake that could drown the state of West Virginia. On the northern shore of Lake Victoria sits Kampala (pop. 22,000), the chief city of the British protectorate of Uganda and the ancient tribal capital of 1,300,000 Baganda tribesmen.
Kampala, like Rome, is built on seven hills. There are Anglican and Roman Catholic cathedrals, a glittering white mosque and a Hindu temple, each on its separate hilltop. Makerere College, the university of East Africa, occupies hill No. 5;...