MANNERS & MORALS: Horse of a Different Flavor

MANNERS & MORALS

When preparing pot roast of horse, the cook should remember that the meat tends to be sweet. More onions should be used and fewer carrots. If the roast is cooked slowly in red wine, as some prefer, a sour wine should be used. In broiling horse fillets, spread some butter over the meat because it is lacking in fat.

This kind of advice was being given to frequent callers last week by the Oregon Journal’s cooking expert, Mary Cullen. Horsemeat, hitherto eaten as a stunt or only as a last resort, was becoming an important item on Portland tables. Now there were three times as many horse butchers, selling three times as much meat. In the Portland markets, horse sirloins are 35¢ a pound, while beef is $1.14; horse tenderloins 45¢, compared to $1.95-$2.15 for beef. People who used to pretend that it was for the dog now came right out and said it was going on the table. In the face of high beef prices, the old grey mare, obviously, was more than she used to be.