MEXICO: A Matter of Taste

As the pressagent told the story, roly-poly Don Vicente Miranda, onetime waiter who now owns Mexico's swankest nightclub, El Patio, lay abed one morning last week and pondered on the world's sad state. Everybody, he decided, was tense and nervous. Then he bounded out of bed with a plan. He would soothe the world with mole, the marvelous Mexican sauce based on chocolate and chile.

Within the hour, Don Vicente had his toothpick-thin cook, La Maga (The Wizard), at work. By nightfall, he had sent a ten-liter container by air to Gilberto Bosques, Mexican ambassador in Lisbon, with instructions on...

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