From Jerusalem, TIME'S Don Burke cabled:

This Christmas Week in the Holy Land, shepherds went armed, travelers to Bethlehem were shot at, and wise men stayed indoors. An atmosphere of fear, gloom and tense anxiety thickened. Man is against man, and over all Palestine there has been bitter fighting.

To see what Christmas Week was like this year, I toured the holy places. I started at Jerusalem's Old City. Unlike old-time pilgrims, I needed an armed escort of British police. We entered at Jaffa Gate, headed down through the ancient Jewish quarter, where for...

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