For a thousand years the feudal capital of Japan, Kyoto is still the nation's capital of learning and culture. Its small luxury shops are almost as bright, smart and busy as when Kyoto was called Japan's Paris. Its many huge temples make Kyoto, like Rome, a city of bells. As Japan's holy city, and a second-rate target to boot, Kyoto escaped bombing. Last week, amid spring's pink and white cherry blossoms, Kyoto seemed full of changeless charm. But beneath the surface stirred the changes of postwar U.S. occupation and tutelage. Surveying the scene, TIME Correspondent Sam...
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