For centuries, the French city of Limoges was split wide open. The Château was ruled by the viscount, the Cité dominated by the bishop, and both camps were rent by war, pestilence, and famine. Yet even in the time of its greatest troubles, Limoges kept producing enamelwork that was the envy of Christendom.
Last week in the bishop's palace (now a municipal museum), some of Limoges' ancient pride was reassembled. In these enamels of the 12th, 13th and 14th Centuries, the intricate colored plaques, chalices and crucifixes recalled Byzantine mosaics and Gothic stained glass....
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