FASHIONS: A Conservative Evolution

At the annual whirl of fall showings last week, socialites, fashion writers and buyers once again filled the Paris salons with silky ohs & ahs. They nodded and buzzed over Schiaparelli's jungle-inspired dinner dresses (trimmed with monkey fur and tiger skin), Maggy Rouff's deep-cut necklines, Jacques Path's tight, shimmering wedding gown (which was pinned together in a last-minute rush, came apart while harpists strummed an Ave Maria).

Rich materials and such new shades as "cigar brown," "seaweed rose," "shrimp pink" and "soft sulphur yellow" helped to create a tizzy of fashionmakers' incoherence. Wrote the N.E.A.'s Rosette Hargrove of one collection (by...

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