Music: Orpheus in a Riding Academy

Salzburg hadn't looked so healthy in years—not since 1937 when Toscanini made it glow with Die Meistersinger and Fidelia. Store windows were chuck-full of cameras, Meissen china, English woolens. Last week thousands of music lovers poured into Salzburg for its famed music festival, and for the first time since the war found it something like old times.

Max Reinhardt's old Faust scenery had been ripped off the open stage of the Archbishop's riding school behind Salzburg's Festspielhaus. In its place workers had put up a simple Ionic-columned portico for this year's big show: an ambitious production of Gluck's Orpheus and Eurydice by...

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