Just outside of Livingston, Ala. the dusty 1941 Buick convertible pulled up beside the road. Four men pored over rumpled road maps. The sallow one with tousled, thinning grey hair said he wanted to get to Moscow. He said it in Russian. The maps didn't help; the whim of Ilya Grigorevich Ehrenburg to visit Moscow, Ala. was not satisfied.* But by last week the Soviet Union's foremost journalist had spent 15 days rambling through the South at his own pace, following his own itinerary with companions of his own choice. It was the kind of reportorial freedom that U.S. correspondents in...
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