Music: Salzburg, 1945

For four magic years, 1934-38, Salzburg was Europe's place-to-go in August. Since 1842, the city's Austrian Burgers had honored Native Son Mozart with a summer music festival, and since 1900 it had attracted music lovers. Then, in 1934, Arturo Toscanini moved to Salzburg, and thousands came by train and plane to see and hear him. After Anschluss and the departure of Fascist-hater Toscanini, Germany's Wilhelm Furtwangler took over and the festivals became Nazi celebrations.

Last week the Salzburg Festival was on again—under the wary eye of the American Military Government. White-helmet-ed MPs directed generals' limousines through cobbled streets. Inside the Festspielhaus some...

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