How Would You Like Your Buffalo?

[an error occurred while processing this directive] In Laos, restaurants catering for foreigners always take the gory ingredients out," says Yannick Upravan, "so we put them back in." While daintier palates might be deterred, most customers at the Lao-born, French-raised restaurateur's new establishment, the 3 Nagas, find the food irresistible.

Located in the ancient royal city of Luang Prabang, the 3 Nagas bills itself as the first fine-dining venue in Laos to serve unadulterated indigenous cuisine. Even if that up-country favorite, fried red ants, has yet to make it on the menu, the dishes certainly have zing. Try the or nam (a hearty...

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