PLAIN PEOPLE: Dreams across the Sea

As soon as I entered the villa, Victor, with the hospitality of a gastronomic grand seigneur, led me to the kitchen and, opening the tremendous refrigerators, bared his culinary treasures. . . . There were mountains of the most beautiful sirloins, filet mignon, and chateaubriant, all the color of a pretty woman's lips; various cuts of lamb . . . capons, chickens and all sorts of birds. . . . I quickly decided on a filet to be broiled on hickory wood.

But before this I naturally asked for some breaded soft clams on toast. They are truly wonderful. If you...

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