Thirty years ago a young wife was hauled up a sheer 600-ft. cliff to her new home in the Faroe Islands. She hasn't yet made up her mind to come down again. Six hundred years ago her Viking ancestors on the craggy basalt archipelago, jutting sharply from the sea 250 miles north of Scotland, came under Danish rule. They haven't yet made up their minds to shake it off.
In overheated Faroe kitchens, hotheaded partisans recently have let the whale-oil lamps burn low while they argued the merits of proud independence on the one hand or Danish protection on the...
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