FINLAND: On Tiptoe

"Do you really think it's so much better?" asked Finns when TIME'S Jack Fleischer returned to Helsinki for the first time in two years. He did.

The city's wartime grey is now covered with bright paint glistening in the long northern sun. Bombed buildings have been repaired. A dozen fine apartment buildings have shot up in one Helsinki district since the armistice of Sept. 19, 1944. There are new cottages and barns along nearby country roads.

Consumer goods are scarce, but Stockmann's, the big department store whose shelves were empty two years ago, now has fine pottery, glassware, furniture, Finnish...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now

Subscribe
Subscribe

Get TIME the way you want it

  • One Week Digital Pass — $4.99
  • Monthly Pay-As-You-Go DIGITAL ACCESS$2.99
  • One Year ALL ACCESSJust $30!   Best Deal!
    Print Magazine + Digital Edition + Subscriber-only Content on TIME.com

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!