In Virginia's tidewater district, 70 mi. from Washington and 20 mi. down the lazy Rappahannock River from Fredericksburg lies quiet old Port Royal, whose 500 inhabitants go about their unimportant affairs in a setting of faded 18th Century elegance. Port Royal has 60 old buildings, most of them built soon after the Revolutionary War. In their shadow there is genteel marketing, churchgoing, scampering of children. Oldsters gabble of huntin' and fishin', aware that nothing much else has happened there since the conflict which they refer to as the War Between the States. Impecunious, somnolent,...
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